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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.